VALVE ADJUSTMENT (PAGE 3)
Since we are starting at cylinder #1, we have to place #1 at the top dead center (TDC) location, this is done by watching the distributor rotor. There is a small notch (oriented at 4 o'clock) cut into the top edge of the distributor where the cap meets the metal distributor body. The trick is to rotate the engine until the rotor is pointing directly at the notch. When it is lined up, look down at the crankshaft pulley (large pulley at the lower end of the fan belt). There will be a notch cut on the inside edge of the pulley that lines up with the split in the center of the engine case. If you are not sure of the marks or you think you might have another pulley installed, here's a link to Rob & Dave's discussion on the subject . It's a good idea to paint the notch with a small amount of visible paint (whiteout works for this but doesn't last). Line the notch up with the split, your engine is now at TDC for cylinder #1. Both rocker arms for cylinder number 1 should have a very small amount of play between the rocker arm and valve. If they don't, your valves are really tight or the engine isn't at TDC for #1. At this point I always check the rocker shaft nuts, these are located between the intake and exhaust rocker arms. They should be tight. Now, using the feeler gauge, measure the gap between the adjusting screw and the top of the valve for both the intake and exhaust. Sometimes the gauge won't fit between the adjuster and the valve stem, in that case break the lock nut loose on the adjustment screw, loosen the screw one turn and insert the feeler gauge. If it requires more than one turn to get the gauge inserted, double check your TDC.
FIGURE 2
Valve Clearances:
- 1954 ~ 1960 (36HP) (Intake - .004") (Exhaust - .004")
- 1961 ~ 1965 (40HP) (Intake - .008") (Exhaust - .012")
- 1966 & Up (Intake - .006") (Exhaust - .006")
1 Diplacement Table
2 Maint. Intervals
3 Valve Adjustment
4 Engine Calculator
5 Essential Tools
6 Type 1 Changes
NEW VISITORS SINCE FEB 2005
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